Dancing with the Gypies

I am putting together a tour called “Dancing with the Gypsies”. It’s not easy, as no Romanian will help me. I am slowly building up my knowledge on what Gypsy tribes do what and where they all live. I am enjoying the research and am amazed at the different cultures there are within the Gypsy communities in Transylvania. A lot of the tribes have no idea the other tribes even exist. It’s weird to enter a community and know more about where they have come from, that they do themselves.

I have a long way to go, but when I do finally have the tour in place, I will enjoy taking guests to meet the characters I am meeting and beginning to understand… and who are teaching me how to dance, like a Gypsy.

If any one wants to join me on my little explorations into the unknown, let me know and we can discover together.

A walk beyond the forest

Saturday morning. Mid August, the sun is shining and I step out of my home in Breb with my camera – detestation unknown. I see the neighbors and Georgy Pop making Horinca in Maria’s Casan. We say hi and Pertu our other neighbor appears and tells me to buy his land down at the cross. This is all before nine o’clock and within five minutes of leaving the house.

Only the day before we were stopped by a guy on top of his huge Maramures gate.
” Hey, English guy, I have to take down my gate, it’s going to fall into the river other wise. You buy it?”
“How much?”
He scratches his head and says “400 euro”
A 50 year old wooden gate, hand carved and over 7 meters wide… I mean, what else can you say “OK, will bring down the tractor and you can put it on there, will pay you next week.”

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I guess Petru had heard I was buying and wasted no time. Hill Billy turned up with his sheep, he was my que to leave and I said I would walk with him.
” Where you going?” I asked as we started to walk.
” Up the mountain, in the woods” he smiled threw his caner ridden lips.
I had no plans, so the woods it would be. We walked up and out of the village avoiding the fallen fruit on the road and into the hills above. Hill pointed out where every one was neglecting their land. Not keeping the trees trimmed the way they should and how it was all changing. I call him Hill and his wife Billy as they live 100% off the land, have done all their lives. We bought their house off them so they could move out this winter and stay in the town with heating and water etc. They want to retire and so this is his last summer of working the land and he was very reflective on the whole thing.

” Look at that, the grass has turned to trees! How can you keep your land like this? The kids, they want fast cars and a job in Germany” he says as he looks down slightly and shakes his head. His herd of 5 close by, following like… sheep.

We reached his land and he proudly showed me the prune trees he planted him self that are now 10m high. He rattles the branches so the sheep can eat the sweet fruit. I am given a guided tour or his lifes work and he sits down to role a cigarette.

I hear some giggling in the distance. ” I will investigate and come back” I said. Over the ridge I find two young girls picking berry’s from a tree. They become super self concise on my approach, but after 5 minutes they are once again start to sing and fool around. I capture the moment with my camera.

” We will be on the internet” they say to each other in Romanian, the giggles turning into pain of laughter. They explain how they get 1.5 ron a kilo for the berries and calculate with some pride, that if they work hard they will earn more than a grown man earns in a day.

I realise they will earn nothing if I keep taking pictures and say my goodbyes. As I leave, Hill Billy is ready to go on to his next piece of land. We walk across the mountain slope in the flickering sunshine through the leaves and come to Claudia’s rock. He poses for a picture so I can post it on Claudia’s FB to show her the carvings are still there.

Lunch time and home beckons.

” Drum Bun Domno” I say; he nods his cap and is gone -the sounds of the sheep bells slowly drowning out into the thick of the forest beyond.

Transylvania to Ozora

I know it sounds a bit cheesy, but where do you go on holiday when your in the adventure tourist business and in theory live in Paradise? A packaged holiday to Spain? Trek to Nepal? Na – we wanted a holiday. We’ve been travelling for 8 years and have seen the sites, so we decided on a festival in Hungry that would be a completely new experience. I used to go to Stonehenge every year, Penny went to Badminton horse trials. Ozora would possibly be a walk down memory lane for me and something totally new for Penny.

I showed Penny the video of the festival

“What do you think?” I said.
“Yeah, why not, we have the camper after all.”

The idea of having the hippy bus was to get us around, not to BE hippys, but what the hell. For a week anyway, we could forget about building houses, www.workingtraveller.com and the day job with www.pappics.co.uk.

12 hours of driving later we arrived, the old lady does 80kms flat out even with the wind in her sails.

A sign says “Welcome to Paradise”

‘Ah bus man’s holiday after all’
I thought with a smile
“ I have goose bumps on my arms” Penny said as I filmed her going under the banner driving the bus.
“Wow” she said, look at all these people, they are… so…”
“Like us Penny, different”

Penny looked at me, and now got why I recommended here instead of a weekend in Venice. We parked up, put our table out and went to meet the neighbors

“Hi”
“Hiiii, welcome Ozora…you drive all the way” they said looking at the number plate and hearing our accents
“No, we live in Transylvania, we came the other way”
Lots of slow nodding from the herd “Cool”
“Glass of wine any one?” Penny offered
“Acid, crystals, I have some great drops or some Nepalese black if you like” one them replied back with a genuine fake smile.
Penny eyes bulged at the collection of stimulates our neighbor had laid out in front of him. Enough drugs to put in prison for 20 years in Romania, a few hours away by car.
“Um… I’ll stick to the dry white for now” Penny said holding up her bottle of plonk.
“Ok, but just have a smoke with us” the smile coming back “As your neighbors”
“OK…”

Penny does not remember much else of the night we arrived.
I watched her pavement pizza disappear into the mouth of a cute little dog the next morning… glad in the thought of sticking to sparking water and mushrooms of the tinned kind from Tescos.

Within a few days we knew every one – even though they still couldn’t quite work out why a middle aged couple who knew nothing about Psy Trans and who did not take drugs, where doing here in a 40 year old hippy bus.

On the third day, a state of the art camper rocks up next to us, rolling up a 45 degree bank like it was a Land Rover and out falls Caroline, a social climber from Hackney with a bottle of cheap Hungarian wine tucked under her arm.

“What, your not into Trans and your here for the week?” she said as she gulped down the wine from a pint glass over dinner “Top bird, Penny, why the fuck not, I say”. Carolyn filled Penny in on the music and how people were ‘motivated’ to stay up all night and ‘slam it’ as she called it, to the music. Penny soon got into the swing of things and loved the beat, rolling up early… in the morning – having been out at the stage all night getting swept up in the whole buzz of the place.

It’s funny, peoples perceptions of stereo types. Yes every one was high as kite, yes they were dressed like they where out of a Mad Max movie, and yet I have never met a more well behaved crowd in my life. From the dance floor to the showers, everyone was polite and had a smile for everything.

On leaving our little piece of holiday paradise we felt we were leaving our new found little cottage on the Isle of White with fond memories of a week’s hols and plans to be back, same place, same time next year to slam it some more Carolyn and Co. and the thousands of other Psy Trans fans of Ozora 🙂

An Orthodox Easter in Romania

“I rarely go to church at Christmas, but I always go at Easter”
This is what I was told when I asked “ How big a deal is Easter here in Romania?”
In the UK Easter is, 3 weeks off for the kids and you get the bank holidays, so prime time to bugger off. Here in our village of Breb, its Christmas all over again and every one comes home from their jobs abroad. Below is a set of pics I took over the Easter weekend in Breb.

Traditional Wedding in Maramures, Măriuţa and Laurenţiu Şandor

‘So, being a God Parent, is there anything we have to do?’ I asked “Like say something at the speeches or something?’
‘Your going to be God Parent Duncan?’
‘Yes’
‘When?’
‘Tomorrow’
‘Tomorrow? And you don’t know what your supposed to be doing?’
‘…no’
‘Have you bought your candles?’
‘Why do I need candles?’

Watch the film of Măriuţa and Laurenţiu Şandor’s wedding in Breb and you’ll find out 🙂

And they say 2012 is the big one?

A year ago I was living is Siwa Oasis, looking forward to a busy tourist season as there had been no troubles in Egypt for some time. As for Libya our neighbor… well nothing happens there.

I had no idea 2011 would work out completely different to how I had planned. Penny and the kids went through not one, but two revolutions, one one either side of Siwa as I watched from Bucharest; my new home, where I spent the entire year building a paparazzi team.

The kids managed to get back to Romania in March, Penny staying on for six weeks whilst Angus and Claudia lived with me in Bucharest brushing up on their Romanian before heading up to Maramures for the summer.

Penny not happy with building one, built two houses this summer with the help of Maria and Nicu our team in Breb.

I kept going with my projects here in Bucharest. We had 11 front pages in August and www.workintraveller.com, my travel site for people who want to carry on their careers whilst workin their way around the word, is now finally in development. It’s a huge project and will take many years to complete, but for now, at least it has started.

We opened Somewhere Different – Transylvania in October and are staying in the Maramures mountains for the winter to let Angus and Claudia go skiing and to finish of another villa in the village so we have a capacity of 8 for next summer. We have gone from a building site to being a fully licensed Pension.

Bookings in Egypt are now coming through and Ludmila is once again busy with guests and putting up the Christmas (palm) tree in the villa as I write.

Sasha has left home. She came back for three months this summer to sort her blood sugar levels out and has managed to get her self a job, a house and, well maybe this has something to do with the fact that she found herself a boyfriend as well. She’s 19 and living in the UK with her man and all is good.

We went ice skating in Bucharest last night, Angus and Claudia enjoyed it a lot and Penny… I never knew she couldn’t skate.
Bucharest Christmas, Angus and ClaudiaBucharest Christmas Angus & ClaudiaBucharest Christmas 2012
We were invited by a load of medical students to go for a drink with them.
“ So, Angus, Claudia, what have you been up to this year?” one of them asked.
“ Well we started out in Egypt” Claudia said “and, you know it got quite bad as Mum ran out of booze and had to start making her own and…”

The students and me listened as they told their story. “ Wow, you guys are like travellers” Mo said, a tall black student from London.
Angus replied “ We’re not like travelers…” he looked over at me and smiled “We are travelers.”
And that’s what’s so great about it all, we are till on a journey, still exploring and finding out things about ourselves we never knew before.

Mo was intrigued with Angus’s reply “ So, Angus, what’s your plans for 2012?”
“ We’ll I will be taking my GCSE’s, but apart from that, dunno” Angus looked at me, and again smiled “Dad?”

The plan next year is, whilst all you guys are busy saving the world from destruction, we’re going to sit it out up here in the mountains in Transylvania and the Sahara desert in Siwa next winter where you all welcome to come and join us and enjoy the simple life.

Well that’s the plan anyway… 🙂

An October deadline

It’s been an interesting summer here in Transylvania. The weather has been great. I have made a new video called ‘The House that Penny Built’ (Part 2). It show’s what we have been up to, why Claudia wanted to buy some Viagra in Sighetu and fellow’s Penny’s ever encroaching deadline of our first guests in October. Will she be ready in time? Click the link here watch it villa in breb maramures you need to scroll down the page a bit to see the video.

A Maramures Summer in Breb

Penny and the kids have been in Maramures for the last few weeks working on the final finishes to Casa Mica, our first villa to open. Angus and Claudia have finished school for this year and are hoping to find a new teacher for them to start in Sept ready to fly south when they all go to Siwa.

Nick, a reporter from the Daily Mail came out to spend last week with us writing a piece for the Saturday Travel section. It will be in the paper in a month or so he recons. The pics below are to go with the story. We took him to the Merry Cemetery, the Communist Museum, up the mountain to have lunch with the shepherds and spent lazy days walking around the village meeting the locals and drinking the Holinka 🙂

Three weddings and a funeral.

I was asked to cover the royal wedding for a Romanian newspaper. We arrived in London.
‘We need to meet the Cheeky girls now’ The reporter said loudly in the hotel reception ‘After, I want to see condom town’.
‘It’s Camden Town’ I said

Here they come, the bride and groom. Get ready, focus and…the crowed cheered and surged forward. The plastic bollard I was standing on bent a bit. As the carriage when by I was heading for the ground, my camera pointing to the pavement. I saw the back of Diana and Charle’s heads. No pics.

Ok, tripod set, here comes the kiss, no crowd is going to push me off my ladder and… the crowed surged, I didn’t budge. Thousands of flags waved in the air. Shit, flags, I… I can’t see anything. I missed Andrew and Sahara kissing.

God its so sad to see this, but I guess I should photograph it and…my Nikon F3 jammed and I watched, not photographed Diana’s coffin go by.

OK the plan is to find a Romanian in the crowd, get them to look at me just before the kiss so I can link the shot into a Romanian story… no chance. I decided I have the kiss of death on the subject and opted for a safe shot away from the front line crowds. I stood next to two women in Hyde Park and lined up my shot.
‘Are you official” The woman next to me asked as she looked at my camera.
‘No I am a ghost” I said and smiled ‘I am covering the event for a Romanian newspaper’
‘Really? My friend next to me is Romanian.’
Ok, I think the kiss could come in a few seconds and… ‘Ramona, please turn around and look at the camera…. now!” She did, just as William kissed Kate in the background.

On leaving for Romania we arrived at Kings Cross to get the train; there weren’t any. A bus ride later… and we missed our flight ending up having to kill 12 hours before the next one. We headed to St Albans.
It was weird to be in St Albans as a foreigner. I took the reporter to see the Abby.
‘Wow’ the reporter said to one of the park keepers as we reached the lake ‘You have ducks here, the gypsy must be very good.’
The park keeper looked confused and I hoped he would not ask.
‘What do you mean’ said the park keeper.
‘In my country, the Gypsy, they would eat the duck’.

PS, we had the front page for today ‘booked’ for an exclusive story we got whilst in London, but Laden getting binned ruled the day.

I like women, I love women: I want her!

A friend of mine come over to Bucharest last weekend. We did as we always do, and said we’d have a quite one.

Around 8.00pm we headed out to check out the London Pup, a large establishment out of town a bit that has a huge permanent sign over the door saying “Party animals welcome”. The bar fit for a rugby club.

‘Ah’ my friend said on entering it ‘ there is no one here’
I have lived abroad for 7 years now and I still suffer from the licensing law habit of the first world war and feel I need to have filled my boots by 11.00pm.

We sat at the bar and as I had an important meeting the next day, I ordered mineral water. My friend spotted a bottle of Rum above the bar and ended up ordering some sort of a cocktail in English, to a guy who spoke only Romanian. We caught up on what was happening in our lives and the time flyed by.

A young woman wearing a pair of tartan shorts that stopped a few centimetres below her perfectly shaped butt walked in and sat on a bar stool near to us.

My friend could not help but notice her ‘… and so um yeah, work is going well and..’
The woman heard us speaking and eventually asked ‘ unde este?’
‘ We are from London’ I said
It appeared to be the magic word as her reply was ‘ I cannot hear you from here, I will come and sit in between you both’.
Our conversation changed from family and work to…
‘ I like London, I want to go, I like rum’ she said, as she ordered the same drink as my friend and put it on the same bill.

I could see my friend assumed she was a prostitute looking for work, but I was not so sure: she had necked three shots in about 10 minutes of arriving in the bar and when she went to the toilet we did not get a warning signal from the bar staff to stay away. I told my friend that it is common in Bucharest: skint students will latch on to foreign guys as they are assumed to all be rich and there goal is free drinks all night and if their lucky, a wedding ring.

‘You smoke?’ The girl asked me looking like on of Dracula’s wives.
‘No’ I said.
She noticed my drink ‘ You drink?’
‘No’ I said smiling
She leaned close to me and asked ‘Are you married?’
‘Yes’ I said still smiling
She instantly shifted in her seat facing directly towards my friend and asked him the same question.
‘No’ he said.
She did not move her position and honed in. ‘ How old are you’ she said sounding like Borat’s sister.
‘ We’re 40….’ my friend said not bothering to add the word six to the end of his sentence.
‘I am 23, I medical student, I have no money, I loooooooove English man’

My friend caught my eye with a, is she for real look as they both drank their matching cocktails.

The London Pup stayed more like the Nags head in Daganem for most of the evening and so it was decided to go to Lipscani, the old centre that rocks till the early hours.
‘ I come… with you’ Alexandria said as we now knew her.

We grabbed a cab and she sat in the front smoking whilst hitting on the driver. My friend was still convinced she was a working girl, but I persuaded him she was not and that this was the correct way for a foreigner to experience Bucharest. Being a traveller and all he agreed to go with it.

‘ We go Mojo’s, but you pay’ she kept saying
Shit, is the hustle not by the hour but by commission, from the dodgy nightclub owner? I thought to myself. We arrived; it was quid each to get in. We relaxed. There was only one table left, right in front of the karoke stage and in full view of the entire bar.

‘I like to sing, I looooove to sing… with you’ Alexandria said to my friend as she got up to dance to an out of tune version of Your Simply the Best. She moved around the table and parked herself on me. I managed to move her to the end of my knee and stop the lap dancing but didn’t notice a few moments later that she had her tongue down my friends throat, whilst still sitting on my knee.

Jesus, what will people think, to old English guys hitting on a poor defenceless Romanian girl. I thought

I managed to move her to a stool next to my friend and she started to climb on to him. I could see we were the karoke show now and not the main stage.

This looks so bad; have to think of a way out of this I thought.

Alexandria’s song came up and my friend thought he was going to be dragged on stage, but instead went up with a woman sitting at the table next to us and did a very hot number with her. On sitting back down, my friend was not sure what the night ahead had planned for him.

Alexandria looked into his eyes ‘I like women’ she said ‘I looooooove women… I want her’ and pointed to her duo singer who was waiting for her.

We started to role about with laughter until we noticed our own song was queued and so jumped up on the stage doing a very ad lib version of Bufflo Solder whilst dancing to the reggie beat. The crowed loved us, we loved it, Alexandria loved her new friend and we took our moment of fame to be seen leaving the building on our own – our ambassador reputations in tact 🙂

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