Itinerary
This is a twenty-day tour of Egypt taking in Cairo,
Siwa , Baharyia, Dakhla, Luxor, Aswan and returning
to Cairo. The focus of the tour is to experience the
different local cultures, to experience life in a way
that the locals do and to not travel around in a 'tourist
bubble'. Except for Cairo and Dakhla, we stay in villas
located within the non-touristy villages. You can
add additional days to the Siwa stage of the trip as you
will not be traveling with any other groups and so
we can tailor your trip to suit your own availability
and budget.
If you have already read the details for
Cairo, Siwa and Baharyia in the Western Desert tour, please move straight
to the Moving on from Baharyia
section where the program changes.
Day 1 Arrival – Cairo Arriving at Cairo airport, you are meet from the
plane with a car or people carrier depending on
the size of your group. You travel directly to the
3 star Victoria Hotel in Downtown Cairo. It has
that old Agatha Christie feel, but is spotlessly
clean with each room having its own en suit and
beautifully polished wooden floors. Depending on
what time of day you arrive you can choose what
we do next. Most guests arrive on the afternoon BMI flight or the Friday
BA night flight from London and due to you arriving late, have a drink or two at the hotel bar and
off to bed. To organise your flights see Getting
to Siwa - Planes |
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Cairo is famous for it's many juice bars |
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The
most famous 'must see before you die' attraction on the
planet, the Pyramids of Giza |
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Day 2 Pyramids – Cairo You can have a nice lazy morning and go to the
Pyramids around 10.00am via Pizza Hut and KFC. You
can stare at the largest man-made structures in
the world along with the many other tour groups
off the Nile cruise boats and be in and out in half
an hour. This is how 95% of people visit the Pyramids.
I always hear the same comments after doing such
a trip. "That was not what I expected,
I thought the Pyramids were out in the desert somewhere,
not next to all this. That was a real disappointment."
15 years ago, my
wife Penny and myself saw the Pyramids in a very different way. We hung
out with some students who lived nearby and at
around 4.00am three horses appeared as they heard Penny as an equestrian. We galloped
off into the desert with no idea of where we were
going, following our guide. After a mile or two
we came over the brow of a hill and saw one of
the most amazing sights of my life – the biggest triangular silhouette you've ever
seen came looming out of nowhere! It was amazing.
We rode around the Pyramids without another person
in sight.
I still remember that moment we saw the Pyramids
rise out of the desert from nowhere, and have put
together a program that gives you a similar experience. |
You rise early at around 6.00am, you'll have loads
of time for lazy days later on in the trip. Breakfast
at the Victoria Hotel is good. Rasha our guide in Cairo meet you at reception at 7.00am and off you go in a people carrier for your big day out.
You arrive near the Pyramids around 7.45am at Tarek's
stables. If getting up early is too much for your group on their first day, you can skip 'Day 2' now and expedience Cairo after Siwa at the end of your tour when you won't be tired. Just let me know when you fill in the enquiry from for this tour
Tarek
is 'Our
man at the Pyramids'. He took over the
running of the family stables from his father,
like his father before him. He is a laid-back
character who speaks very good English and
runs a tight ship. He also understands and
cares about horses.
Many
ex-pats who live in Cairo use Tarek's livery
facilities for their own horses and he understands
the need for safe, well kept horses. When
I make a booking with Tarek he always asks
me who is in the group, how good a rider
they are, how heavy they are and so on,
so when we arrive the right horse is always
ready for each rider.
It took
me a long time to find Tarek, I went into
every stables around the Pyramids to find
someone who could provide me with what I
wanted. Tarek has taken care of me and my
guests now for five years. He's a top bloke
and makes the whole pyramid experience a
hassle-free, enjoyable experience. |
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Tarek is a great guy and speaks english |
Checking out the many liveries
at Tarek's stables in the old stable buildings |
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If anyone wants tea, a click of the fingers and
one of the grooms will scurry off to boil the kettle.
A quick look around the stables, which are over
100 years old, to look for any newborn foals and
to just have a look at how an Egyptian stables is
run differently from home. Everyone is found a horse
that is right for them and we set off through the
old town. No-one has seen the Pyramids in full yet ( they are hard to avoid) and set off in search of them. |
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You ride for 10 minutes through
the old town seeing people getting their horses
and camels ready for the coming day's tourists along
with children going off to school and people going
about their daily business.
You turn a corner and go through the back door to the pyramids, your guide from Tarek's stable deals with the gate keepers requests for baksheesh. You move out into open desert. If your a rider you can gallop off here and ride around in the desert any where you want, keeping an eye on where the ones who don't ride are and the guide. |
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Through the back streets of Giza we go in search of
the open desert
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At this time in the morning there are few people around
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Ye then turn east and ride through the desert.
You ride along in silence until some yells "WOW,
LOOK OVER THERE!" and, out of the mist, looms
the top of the Great Pyramid. You ride closer, slowly
taking in the immense size and presence of the six
pyramids that lie before you. |
You ride right up to the pyramids and dismount
your horses.
Rasha your tour guide for the day will be waiting for you at the bottom of the middle pyramid and your guide from Tarek's stable will take you there. make sure you ride around for a full hour as that is what you have paid for. Rasha gives you many 'wow' facts about the pyramids
and explain how they were built and how long it
all took. |
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The Group shot and time to reflect on the last remaining
wonder of the world |
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You can take as long as you like walking around
the pyramids. Depending on what day it is, you can
go inside one of the three large pyramids right
down into the middle of the structure, if you can
handle the claustrophobia and heat that is. |
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As the crowds begin to arrive, if you chose not to go inside one of the pyramids, you venture into
the building that looks like a huge desktop printer
next to the largest pyramid. Inside is the
oldest boat in the world. rasha will take you around and explain in detail how and why it was built.
It also has clean toilets, the only ones available
in the pyramids complex. |
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After looking
around the three main pyramids, you walk down
to the Sphinx and with no rush, when you have
had enough time, you walk back out into the main
street and a short distance back to Tarek's
stables that are now buzzing with activity.
You leave the Pyramids around 12.00pm with Rasha in the same people carrier you arrived in so you can leave your bags etc in there. You head
back into Cairo. Your next stop is the Knan Al Khalili
Bazaar in the ancient Islamic part of Cairo but you will stop at a traditional Cairo restaurant Rasha recommends for lunch before getting to the market that has clean toilets. You will need to pay for this lunch as it is too complicated for me to get Rasha to pay for it. It doesn't cost much and it gives you the choice to have what you want. Once your all refreshed, you are dropped off a mile or so away from the Knan Al Khalili
market and stroll through the non-touristy streets
to get a real feel of old city and what life was
like here in medieval times. Rasha train for 4 years in Egyptian antiquities and will be able to answer your questions and islamic life here from the beginning, up to the present day.
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Mohammad & his merry men |
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Out of the touristy areas
you are a novelty and get to meet the locals |

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I
never get bored of coming through the old markets
that lead up to the Kala Khalili Bazaar. Opportunities
to take pictures of the old ways of life and
the 1,000-year-old buildings are everywhere.
People go about their daily business and donkeys
deliver the gas bottles as they have done for
years. You can smell the different sections
of the market, the spices and sweet potatoes
for sale from the street vendors. |
Islamic Cairo has more Islamic
monuments than any other city in the world and
most of them are right here in the old city,
all around you, giving you a real feel of medieval
life. We stroll along the street in no hurry,
stopping for tea or a juice from the local juice
bars and using when needed the not-so-clean
toilets dotted around the markets. |
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A workshop that invited us
in for a look around and tea
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walk through the markets and monuments until
you reach El Fishawi's, the famous cafe in the
middle of the Kala Khalili bazaar for tea and
clean toilets;) |
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A local beggar in the markets, happy with her baksheesh |
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After tea you head off into the various markets
were there are all sort of things for sale
and depending on what you are looking for
and depending on where we go. We have our own shop
in Siwa and have wholesale prices agreed with
some of the shops for jewelry and silver in the Knan Al Khalili, so
you can get some good deals on certain items from us, but it's more fun to do your own haggling and buy it here.
Most of the items sold in the bazaar are
not high quality and it takes a good eye to
spot the difference. You can practice your
bargaining skills and test your eye for an
unusual antique or just walk around and take
it all in if your not in the mood for shopping.
You can spend as long as you like in the Kala Khalili
market. Once you have had your fill, Rasha will telephone
the car and your picked up and taken back to the
Victoria Hotel. It's a big day out, but a memorable
one. In the evening you have dinner included in the cost at the Victoria Hotel, if you wish to eat out in one of the many good restaurants in Cairo which we highly recommend, we will reimburse you the price for the set menu at the Victoria when you arrive in Siwa. It's up to you. Obviously if I am not with you I cannot pay for your dinner if you eat out of the hotel. If you are a large group, I sometimes come up to Cairo and join you for this part of the tour and so can obviously deal with paying for dinner out if I am there. As a lot of our groups are between 2 and 5 people it keeps the cost of the tour down if I do not join you in Cairo. Remember any bars or
clubs you visit in Cairo will not be included in the ' all
inclusive' costs, but I am happy to recommend where to go if you want to experience the Cairo night life. This is the only thing that is
not included in the price. |
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Day 3 Traveling to Siwa Around 8.00am, depending on when you want to
leave, your driver appears at the hotel and your
bags are all collected and put into the people carrier
ready for your journey. You can stop whenever and
wherever you want. Around lunchtime you pass the Commonwealth
War Graves at El Alamain. It's a moving place, and
reading the stories of each solder lost in the battle
here, which they say changed the course of the Second
World War, makes your reflect and imagine what it
was like.
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The
war graves at El Alamain were 80,000 men lost their
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If I am traveling with you, lunch is included in the price in a great local restaurant with grilled chicken,
salad and some sort of pies. I have
no idea what they are, but they taste great! If I am not with you and you want to go for a swim in the Mediterranean your driver will stop at a 5 star resort called Charm Life for an hour or so break. As long as you buy
a round of drinks they are happy for you to use
their facilities but they do a great buffet lunch for around 120 EGP per person. Any costs at Charm Life is down to you.
You follow the Mediterranean coast down to Marsa
Matrouh were you turn left and spend the afternoon
driving through the remotest place you have probably
ever been. You enter the Sahara Desert where you
start to realise... your really are going Somewhere
Different. |
Camels are often seen on the road between Marsa Matrouh
and Siwa |
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The road to Siwa is very good and comfortable
to travel on, you can read a book whilst driving
along. The desert here is vast and as you stare
out of the window and see the camels grazing at
the side of the road you can image traveling to
Siwa like Alexandria the Great. you can stop for tea
in the Bedouin tea house half way and normally sleep
for the rest of the journey.
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The road through the desert
to Siwa |
| Arriving in Siwa |
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You arrive in the early evening in time for G&T's
on the roof terrace around the open fire and a quick
tour of the Siwa Villa by Mohammad the house keeper and Penny. They are both full-time staff
and are here to make your stay as enjoyable as it
can be. To see detailed pictures of the Siwa
Villa inside and the Siwa
Villa from the outside have a look here.
One or two drinks on the terrace and off we go
to the best restaurant in town for a good meal or dinner in if your arriving late.
Back to the villa where you can sit around the fire
till the early hours catching up with friends. |
The roof terrace where you
have a welcoming drink and take in Siwa for the first
time |
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Day 4 Day off – Siwa Unlike other adventure holidays, you're now in
your own villa and you can do exactly what you want
when you want. Mohammad will bring fresh bread each
morning, leaving it hanging on the door so as to
not wake any one up. You fix your own breakfast
with eggs, cereal and fruit and take it easy.
Mohammad is available at any time to take you
off in the donkey cart around the town or out to
one of the many Roman springs around town for swimming.
In the afternoon Duncan (me) can come and collect
you all in the resident jeep and head out to the
edge of Great Sand Sea for a spot of sandboarding
down some huge dunes before watching the sun go
down on the edge of the desert and heading off to
a hot spring in the Bedouin camp next to the desert.
You can do all of the above or you can stay in
bed for the whole day or read that book you started
in Cairo up on the roof terrace. It's up to you.
Dinner is served in the Siwa Villa on the terrace
or around the enormous dining room table. If you want, Mohammad
can make you a local dish know as 'chicken in the sand'
that is cooked, funnily enough, in the sand in the
garden. The town souk is a few minutes walk away
where you can go exploring after dinner or stay
around the fire on the roof terrace or in the living
room.
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The
Siwa Villa where you will stay when in Siwa Oasis. |

Ahamed
is passionate about Siwa and its history and it comes
through in his talks |
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Day 5 The Sights – Siwa In the morning everyone can do their own thing,
go swimming in the springs, sandboarding on the
edge of the desert in the jeep, walk around town
or mingle with the neighbors in the Shali.
At around 2.00pm, Omar who works for the local antiquities department and who speaks very good English meets
us at the Siwa Villa and we all take off in the
jeep(s) for a private tour of the sights of Siwa. |
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of Amun has huge 'energies' we are told by some
of our guests. It has a colourfull past and is mentioned
throughout Greek history. |
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The Oracle– one of seven in the
world. Each Pharaoh made the journey to Siwa to
confirm they were the son of God along with Alexandria
the Great.
The
Oracle was on of the seven centers of knowledge in
the Mediterranean area
Omar takes you through the whole story from the
establishment of the oracle to the time when the
villagers moved out in favor of the Shali mountain.
He will give you an insight into the Berber culture
and way of life that is often amusing as well as
interesting. |
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The
pharonic tombs have mummies and paintings inside Mountain of the Dead has been the burial ground
for Siwa for 5,000 years. There are hundreds of
tombs here, several dating back to the pharonic
times. The mummies inside still have their original
hair and are an amazing sight.
Dinner will be at the Siwa Villa or in a restaurant
of your choice in town, depending on how you feel.
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Day 6 Desert Safari of your
choice Siwa Around 10.00am Nasser, arrives
at the Siwa Villa to pack our tent into his jeep
and collect the blankets. Mohammad runs of to the
shops for the provisions for the day and we set
off around 11.00am for our desert adventure.is amazing
Nasser is one of the few true professional drivers
in Siwa and knows his way around. He has been driving
in the Great Sand Sea in the Western Desert in Siwa
for many years and enjoys taking our guests around. |
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Yes,
this is what the Great Sand Sea next to Siwa looks
like |
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Nasser's
jeep can take us deep into the Great Sand Sea in the
Western Desert
We head out into the Great Sand Sea for some serious
dune hopping. We have discovered some very interesting
places out in the desert that we like to keep a
secret so as to not publicise their locations to
other desert travelers. Some of the fossils, mummies
and petrified forests are in danger of becoming
extinct (again) due to people taking home the fossils
as souvenirs.
We insist that, were there are rare fossils, people
do not take any home, there are places where we
will take you where it's perfectly OK to take some
shells or fossilized leaves as there are many of
them. |
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A
Petrified forest 40 km's from Siwa |
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There
are dunes twice this size we hop over, don't believe
me ... wait and see;)
Somewhere Different has its own collection of
sand boards and toboggans for hammering down those
huge dunes, just like in the TV ads. |
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Siwa
is one of the best places on earth to sand board.
We have the biggest dunes!
After a day of exploring the desert and flying
over some very big dunes we set up camp under a
large dune for protection against the wind.
Mohammad sets all the tents up ( if there is room
for him to come with us) and Nasser sets about cooking
the evening meal. You are required to do nothing
but sip on a cold beer or climb to the top of the
dune to see the sunset. |
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Take
it all in whilst dinner is prepared and the camp for
the night is set up
Barbequed chicken and vegetables or what ever
you chose in the market the day before.
We sleep out under the stars in the dunes without
a mosquito or bug in site. |
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Day 7 to 9 Day off days – Siwa On the way back to Siwa in the morning we pass
by Bira Wahed to have a soak in the hot and cold
springs right out in the desert. Bira Wahed gets
very busy so this is the best time to visit when
no one is around. |
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The
hot spring at Bira Wahed |

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Three lazy days in Siwa doing what ever you want. The
donkey cart and jeep are always available to take
you anywhere you want to go, so swimming, sandboarding
or exploring the old town, it's up to you. Dinner
is somewhere different on this day as we go to our
friend's house for a traditional meal in a traditional
Siwan home. The men have to sit in one room and
the visiting women only are allowed to meet the
women folk of the family in a separate area of the
house. When dinner is ready we all join up together
in the 'men only' room for dinner which is normally
a bit of a feast with too much food! |
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picture postcard cold spring at Bira Wayed right out
in the Western Desert |
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Day10 Siwa – Bahariya Early start with Nasser arriving around 8.00am at
the Siwa Villa. Mohammad packs all your bags on
the roof rack and makes sure you have not left anything
behind.
We make sure all the passports and permissions
for the 420 km desert crossing to Baharyia are all
correct and off you go. |
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Dinner
at Mohammad's house, it's a real experience as well
as great food. |
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Your
first stop is around 100km into the desert on
our way to Baharyia. It is a Roman settlement,
which is now abandoned and totally isolated.
There are mummies here in some of the tombs
and some amazing views out over this abandoned
oasis. |
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stop half way to Baharyia for a lunch of tuna,
bread, salad and of course, too much sweet Siwan
tea made by Nasser. He enjoys cooking and likes
to tell you stories about the old days while
he is preparing the food, but he's a bit shy
and needs a little encouragement and several
teas to get those tales of the 'old ways'' flowing.
You arrive
in Bahariya in the early evening , depending
on how long we spend exploring in the Western
Desert. Peter who we work with in Bahariya will have dinner prepared
for you in his hotel when you arrive as there is a limited
choice of restaurants in Baharyia.
You can retire for the evening or take a stroll
around town and check out the bar ... if you
can call it a bar. There are a few shops here
and there but not much to see in the town.The best thing to do is have a dip in teh very hot spring that is literlay in front of your hotel room. |
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We
are over a 200 kilometers from the nearest well, it
is spookily quite here. |


Just one more pic of camels
on the road
- Before lunch Nasser takes us around the best places
in the White Desert with no other groups around.
It really is an amazing place.


They say the surface of Mars
looks like the Western Desert in Egypt







Time to be on your own and
remember who you are.


Another one for the album
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as much time as we like in the White Desert to
look around the various rock formations and different
scenes that the white rock throws up at us. Omar
is happy to stop any where we want and whilst
we carry on exploring he makes lunch and, of course,
lots of Siwan tea! |
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Lunch in the White Desert in the Western Desert of
Egypt.
After lunch we move on to Farafar Oasis where we
say goodbye to Nasser and travel by air-conditioned
Micro Bus to Dacra Oasis where we stay in basic but
clean hotel accommodation. Currently there is no opportunities
to 'live with the locals' in Dacra, but I'm working
on it;)
To continue the Living
with the Locals tour, please click here |